Yesterday Mpdclick had the pleasure of viewing the Scandinavian duo’s autumn/winter 11/12 collection ‘Totum’.
‘Totem’ takes influence from totemic tribes, primitivism and subtraction. The influence behind this darker collection was taken from totem poles, spirits and animals, with a focus on primitive religions and deities taking on new forms, creating a new tribe.
The collection maintains soft silhouettes and draping in silk georgette, with asymmetric cuts and the use of straps across the body, accentuating and flattering. Yet the Aminaka Wilmont avant-garde, trademark tailoring remains strong with the use of washed leather jackets and shorts, mixed with thick, Italian Shearling and Toscana.
The digital prints from this collection are inspired by animal hides, skins and furs. The prints are bold and strong and there is a hint in the direction towards more structured blocks of shape and colour. The knitwear, in graduating shades of grey has been cut to flow widely around a silhouette, with arm and leg warmers continuing the raw and unbreakable feel throughout the collection.
Totem’ is tougher, more raw, durable and meaningful. The impenetrable wedge boots, both knee and ankle high, heavily represent a strong animal’s hoof, reaffirming that a hard edge can still be elegant. With pheasant feathers, glaring eyes and long hair, there is a gluttonous edge to this collection.
Maki Aminaka, Creative Director at AMINAKA WILMONT says, “For us this collection has been about showing the British fashion industry who the Aminaka Wilmont woman is. She is determined and confident with her own individuality and uniqueness. This is our 7th season on schedule, we know the direction we are moving in and we want this to come across in this collection.”
Mpdclick says: The primitive nature of this highly crafted collection sits perfectly with Mpdclick’s Primal trend forecast, reinforcing our predictions for autumn/winter 11/12. Primal notes “a renewed sense of spiritualism evoking an affinity with the natural world and the rediscovery of the instincts buried deep within us all.” Mpdclick subscribers, click here for further Primal trend information.