Words by Sarah Wade, Editor MPDClick.com.
For autumn/winter 12/13 Ashish Gupta’s typical signatures were all evident. The Indian-born, London-based designer’s self-proclaimed “fun-loving and sexy with a sense of humour” aesthetic took inspiration from “New Age, rainbows and Goa” this season.
‘Bollywouldn’t’ was a collection loosely based on Ashish’s heritage, juxtaposed with London’s nineties rave scene, the era’s retrospective obsession with ‘hippie’ providing tongue-in-cheek references with tie dye, smiley face motifs and slogans including ‘be happy’ and ‘relax’.
Cultural boundaries are not something that usually affect this line; true to form the obligatory sequins, bold prints and artistic mash-up was accompanied by Indian style headscarves, traditional nose rings with chains and tunics with slim trousers worn underneath. Similarly, one could say that this was a collection devoid of the sensibilities of the current economic situation. Ashish knows his customers and this collection in particular provided rest bite from a season awash with simple separates, wearable overcoats and structured lines.
Whilst the layered up looks and intricate embellishments were not a marked move away for Ashish, his silhouettes and proportions showed what a remarkable designer he truly is. Showing emblazoned chunky knits, alongside an appealing racer back maxi and slouchy almost pyjama-like separates with utility references had the select audience sat on the edge of their seats wondering what was next. Stiff materials and minimalist shapes in-between the glitz and bohemia of it all added a surprising dimension while the use of typography and iconic graphics will undoubtedly produce many a ‘must have’.
See the full collection on MPDClick here.