Archive for July, 2010

resource: can the world economy afford to go eco?


Words by Fiona Jenvey, CEO Mudpie

Fashion retailers and brands live in dread of people buying less, but what if instead of buying less we wasted less? Of course this would mean that products would need to be more expensive and longer lasting with more care taken over both design and manufacture.

How different things will be. In the 1930s, governments stimulated the ecomomy by encouraging excessive consumption. Consumer goods companies created products with built in obsolescence while the advertising industry drove the notion of desirability for goods that no one had ever needed before. Now the emphasis is on conserving our resources which means that the consumer goods industry faces two juxtaposing requirements: to make longer lasting sustainable products and to create consumer demand for products that sustain an economy which is built on debt. This dilemma means that the world economy in financial terms cannot afford to save the planet.

Consumers themselves face the same dilemma. Sustainability initiatives urge us to stop wasteful consumption, but if we do this how do we solve the need to consume when the worlds economy is based on debt?

Things used to be very different, a ladies overcoat lasted 10 years, cars made in the 1950s were on the road for 20 years and the old typewriters would still be working today if they hadn’t been replaced by computers.

An exhibition on sustainable design has just finished at the Design Museum in London, highlighting the full lifecycle impact of the products on display. These include a wooden radio, a parka made out of old parachutes, a clock that monitors energy consumption in real time and an ‘edible estate’ showing the potential to grow food even in the most urban of settings.

For retailers, manufacturers and brands a key objective is to create enduring products that deliver revenue and profit, a notion put forward by the Authors of ‘Cradle to Cradle’ the German Chemist Michael Braungart and American Architect William McDonough in 2002. They promoted the idea of discarded products being returned back into either a technical cycle where the materials could be re-used with no degradation of original quality or into a biological cycle where the material could in effect be returned to the environment to nourish the growth of natural materials.

Cradle to cradle is not a matter of tinkering, it requires different thinking and the creation of whole new technologies.

What would happen if a coat was passed down through several children- or was sold and re-sold through sevral used clothing stores? If the trend for vintage is anything to go by the idea is workable enough, but is this bad news for the manufacturer, retailer and brand? Not neccesarily, yes fewer coats would be needed, but what was made would be more expensive and much better quality.

Source: Wallpaper magazine and information that has previously appeared on mpdclick.com

Image source: magazine.enlightennext.org

music: clare maguire


The mystique surrounding this new artist is one of the drawing qualities that urge us to know more and more about soul-stirring singer/songwriter, Clare Maguire.  Jay-Z’s been praising her, Jarvis Cocker has written a song for her and this 22year old from Birmingham, UK has still yet to release an album.

With just two songs on her Myspace and no new information on her Facebook page or official website, just the clear words “I’m Clare Maguire let’s begin…” (an intriguing opening line), Maguire’s record label (polydor) are clearly opting for the buzzing word-of-mouth PR strategy to distinguish her from the reality culture of many of today’s musicians.

‘Are You Ready’ is the first song listed on Maguire’s Myspace page. At just over a minute long, an entrancing heart beat leads into yearning, Eurythmic style vocals with a quality reminiscent of Massive Attack’s epic compositions; a standalone mood setter for her next record ‘Strangest Thing’. Here, her voice really is testament to the industry hype surrounding her. In NME and The Guardian, her voice is compared to Kate Bush, Amy Winehouse and  Florence & the Machine, but these comparisons just lead to false conclusions; Maguire’s voice stands on its own unique pedestal, giving goose-pimples to anyone who listens. Her tone is ultimately euphoric yet with an authentic blues undertone that creates a hypnotic depth to her voice.

Having just played her first gig at Latitude festival in the UK this year, her next appearence isn’t listed until the 10th October at the Kirsty MacColl tribute night at the O2 Shepherd’s Bush Empire. We shall be keeping a close eye on this lady’s movements.

Click here to visit her Myspace page

Image source: www.myspace.com_claremaguire

look of the week


The streets of LA have provided us with a hot mix of styles to be inspired by in this weeks street style reports, with even the odd celeb snap!

Mpdclick’s favourite controversial rapper/singer, M.I.A is spotted looking relaxed on the back of a scooter in a cool juxtaposition of styles; vibrant printed leggings teamed with a smart buttoned-up grey shirt and gold mesh pumps. Tousled locks, a hint of red lippy and silver sheened nails add to the relaxed chic ensemble.

This LA inhabitant carries an authentic rock attitude with his swagger and styling. A short sleeved leather jacket is layered upon a chest revealing, low-v teeFaded black skinny jeans, the indie-rockers essential are seamlessly teamed with hi-top plimsolls with a silver chain bracelet, with sunglasses and stubble finishing this coveted, rugged look.

Click here to see the full male and female street reports from LA – not to be missed!

beauty: trends for autumn/winter 10/11


Summer 2010’s beauty and cosmetics offerings presented bold kaleidoscopic hues, framed by extravagant bouffant lashes and extreme glossy lips, reflecting the eccentricities of the festival season. In comparison, the forthcoming autumn/winter 10/11 season sees a distinct focus upon natural skin with a seamless finish as well as dark stained lips and smoky eyes, working perfectly upon this au naturel base taking the look into the evening.

Couture shows for autumn/winter 10/11 offered a variety of key make-up looks, with significant collections including Valentino, Elie Saab and Christian Dior.

Valentino showed a romantic collection for autumn/winter 2010, portrayed by delicate sheer fabrics, ruffles and falling tiers. Dresses were smothered in delicate bows and pastel tones, embracing a youthful feel. Black and white monochrome tones featured heavily within the collection along with significant bursts of red. To complement the pure and structured collection, the make-up was kept natural and simplistic with a hint of glossed lips and acorn hued eyeshadow, as not to draw attention away from the detailed garments.  

© Valentino

Within the Elie Saab collection the model’s smoky eyes accentuated the rich tones that were shown throughout the garments, from heavy velvets and inky prints to embellished evening dresses.

© Elie Saab

The Christian Dior collection presented a fusion of muted hues in ‘Escapism’ themed garments full of texture and layering. The model’s make up consisted of theatrical, copper and blue eye shadows and dark stained lips working effectively with the collection.   

© Christian Dior

The key colours and shades generated on the catwalk will influence and inspire make up artists and designers alike, eventually filtering through to retail shelves in a matter of months.

We now look at how to achieve these key beauty trends highlighted above while outlining their potential to work in sync and complement Mpdclick’s forecasted autumn/winter 2010/11 trends: ‘Cleanse’, ‘Escapism’ and ‘Origin’.

Au Natural’ – Cleanse & Origin

As seen at Valentino, less is more this season with regards to skin. To achieve this look, apply a delicate amount of lightweight foundation to the face to even out the skin tone and enhance the sheer natural beauty of the skin. To add definition, accentuate the contours of the face with a hint of iridescent powder applied to the temples and cheekbones, finishing with a subtle hint of rosy/peach blush applied to the apples of the cheeks, adding warmth to any skin tone. To complement the Origin trend, opt for a bronzed rose blush to create a more sun-kissed look.

Smoky Intensity’ – Escapism

This season saw a new twist on the classic smoky eye at Elie Saab; to create this look for maximum intensity, accentuate the eye shadow right up to the brow bone with a charcoal palette, continuously layering dark tones to create an illusion of depth. To draw extra attention to the eye, finish the look with lashings of volume enhancing mascara. For more of a subdued look apply a slick of shimmering silver liner along the top lash line for more of an angelic contrast, as opposed to the dark intensities of the smoky eye.

Stained Authority’ – Origin & Escapism

Deep stained lips featured at the Christian Dior collection is achieved with a strong matte shade. Deep plum or cherry tones create volume, intensity and an air of authority, a statement look perfect for any tone.

Main image source: Medioimages/Photodisc

textiles: hooray for hemp!

In the latest of her monthly blogs for Mpdclick’s Trend Journal, knitwear designer Claire Newberry discusses her passion for eco friendly fabrics and how we should overcome previous stigma’s of certain materials. Claire has extensive experience in the knitwear industry, working with design consultancies on projects like IN.D.EX and Textile View Magazine, and designing in-house for the likes of Fred Perry, Marks and Spencer and House of Fraser. Today, Claire works freelance, designing for Topshop, amongst others, and lecturing the next generation of designers at De Montford University.

I was recently asked to work with knitted hemp fibre for a company on a technical project  for the F1 industry. I was initially concerned that the hemp yarn I was using was contorted with spirality  problems, slubs  and other imperfections  within the yarn’s  make up. My initial thoughts were ‘what will my client  think?’ ‘will this yarn stand up to the their possibly prejudiced scrutiny of striving for perfection? In this  world, was there room for my humble knitted fabrics? And why an earth a knitted textile car?!

It’s well documented that the increasingly aware and informed consumer is biting back (grow your own, farmers’ markets et al). We, ourselves are questioning what we put into our bodies, what we wrap around our bodies and  more increasingly, what journey has it taken to end up in our wardrobes and with what detriment to the environment? The big retailers are being forced to take heed of consumer needs.

Enter Cannabis Sativa – hemp…..

This poor plant has been misunderstood due to its close association with its brother, the Cannabis Indica  for  marijuana  drug use largely due to the media attention in the 1930’s in the US pushed by the petrochemical industry and timber producers who saw the growing of hemp for an alternative fuel as a potential threat to their businesses. A campaign to demonise hemp because of its link with the cultivation of marijuana producing strains was successfully lobbied, forcing the US government to make the growing of hemp illegal (and still is in US to this day).

It seems hard to imagine that in the UK the cannabis plant was grown widely in Elizabethan times, in fact  farmers were fined if they didn’t grow it! Hemp was grown to produce textiles eg ship’s sails, rigging and rope. It was also grown for its medicinal uses. By the late 19th century, however, hemp was in decline due to the industrial revolution and fossil fuel developments were exploited.

Going back to my automotive start, Henry Ford’s Model T was built  back in the 1920’s using hemp fibre and what’s more, the engine was built to run on hemp oil too. Sound strangely familiar? Going back to my first paragraph of F1 teams wanting hemp panels, what goes around comes around it seams, there really is nothing new, is there? What’s more, Lotus cars have even built panels for the Elise using  hemp fibre grown in the South of the UK.  In fact, hemp can be grown anywhere, is far less toxic than conventional fuels when made into ethanol, it needs less space to grow than other crops eg trees-for wood pulp, it needs no pesticides and it only takes four months to reach harvest ready plants. Hemp has many health benefits too in its seed and oil. It can be used to make paper, can be made into building blocks, pet bedding, etc.

In conclusion, let’s grow up! How much longer do we have to withstand this strangle hold from financial giants commanding what’s on the retail ‘market stall’? Unity of consumer spending power will force new ways to produce our eco friendly goods. That’s assuming everybody wants to live in a unpolluted, choice filled world of course!

Image source: furniturehomedesign.com

marketing: airbrushing clampdown


Unachievable body images used in magazines and ad-campaigns are being branded ‘a health risk’ by the British government.

The fashion industry is being put under pressure to stop releasing airbrushed imagery as they are promoting unrealistic ideals of the body and beauty. Young girls, women and even men admit to being self conscious after seeing models in fashion magazines. We all admire the beautiful models we are bombarded with on a daily basis, but this is now being branded as dangerous, as more eating disorders and suicides are being put down to low levels of self esteem in the way people, especially teenagers, look and feel about themselves.

As an attempt to clamp down on this, the equalities minister for the Coalition government, Lynne Featherstone, is pushing to have a Kitemark or heath warning put on all airbrushed adverts to warn the readers that the images are not real.

Featherstone also questions the actions of the advertising agencies as she reinforces their code of conduct, which states that they ‘should not publish inaccurate, misleading or distorted information’ – however it is unarguable that retouched photographs are misleading the reader into believing that have not been altered.

This is an important issue that will affect the whole of the marketing industry in the UK; if this motion is pushed through it is something that we here at Mpdclick HQ will be keeping a close eye on and keeping you informed about.

Image Source: Dailymail.co.uk, thesite.org

sports: stella mccartney glows in the dark


Stella McCartney is in the centre of the sports spotlight at present with her latest glow-in-the-dark collection for Adidas (autumn/winter 10/11) just revealed.

The collection boasts illuminating leopard print motifs on jackets, shorts and running shoes that keeps the collection current and feminine. McCartney commented: “when you are running in an urban environment it keeps the runner safe as they can be seen easier, especially as it gets darker earlier in the winter”.

This collection has given McCartney a massive leap forward as she has also been revealed as the new creative director for Team GB in the 2012 London Olympics as mentioned in a previous blog entry. An exclusive Team GB lifestyle range for men and women will also be available, which can be bought by sports fans during autumn 2012.

So what’s next for Stella? Well… designing for the Queens Guards! Strictly vegan McCartney is currently in the process of convincing the Ministry of Defence to changed the Guards bear skin hats, known as Bear28’s, to ones made from plastic fibres.

Historically, England has a very high regard for animals, so it makes perfect sense that the MoD should continue shedding ceremonial furs from uniforms,” McCartney said. We’ll have to wait and see.

Image source: inhabitat.com

sport: an alternative approach to exercise


Exercising is about to become a lot more fun – step away from that treadmill.  More people are starting to break the mould and find alternative ways of exercise instead of a tedious workout in a gym environment. ‘Thinking outside the box’ is now being actively encourage in the exercise world.

The Sweat Spot’ is LA’s answer to this more unorthodox approach to exercise.  Classes such as Tap Dat Azz and Rock n’ Roll ballet are being embraced by the trendsetters in a studio run by local choreographer, Ryan Heffington.
Another example of this idea is being employed in Illinois, USA; the class is called ZombieFit.  True to its name, the students are being taught how to build up the power and stamina to be able to literally fight for their lives against the living dead (think 28 Days Later).
This notion of taking an individual approach to our everyday lives is something that is inspiring us here at Mpdclick for the spring/summer 2012 season.
Image source: trendcentral.com

fashion & awards: vauxhall fashion scout unveils merit award winner


The winner of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Merit Award for spring/summer 2011 is London’s Royal College of Art graduate Eudon Choi.

The designer showcases his collection during September’s London Fashion Week and will receive specialist mentoring throughout the year. Eudon, who previously worked as a senior designer at Twenty8Twelve before launching his own label in 2009, was part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s group show, Ones To Watch in February. He follows in the footsteps of previous winners Hermione de Paula, William Tempest and David Koma.

Source: fashionmonitor.com

Image source: vogue.co.uk

retail: lanvin arrives in new york


Lanvin opened its first New York store last week, finally joining the rest of the global fashion houses in their NY City exploit.

Located at 815 Madison Avenue, the new concept store will occupy the first three floors of a five-story townhouse, with the top two accommodating the company’s head quarters. Having taken four years to put together, this much anticipated design has followed the Lanvin vision of working with the structure and architecture of the location to dictate the finished appeal of the store. This time around, Lanvin’s creative director, Alber Elbaz, has styled the concept around a residential apartment from the Twenties which was a decade that highlighted the peak for the house founder, Jeanne-Marie Lanvin.

Schläppi models with red cupid lips holding birdcages dominate the main window display, welcoming women into a homely first floor lined with blacked steel cabinets holding animal print, ready-to-wear accessories and rich selections of fur. Art deco and art nouveau chandeliers can be spotted throughout, mirrored surfaces and decadent black fox fur covered benches – a mix of vintage style paraphernalia with slight modern injections. Passing the wall of Madam Lanvin’s blown up portrait and exiting the elevator to the second floor, shoppers are greeted with yet more photographs of the houses founder in minimalist black frames. Just outside the main room, and in a living room atmosphere, shoes and boots are strategically placed in black stacked open cubes. With 20-foot high ceilings and a two-story Palladian window boasting impressive views out onto Madison Avenue, and walls lined with a mix of ready-to-wear and runway imagery, Elbaz has truly hit the mark again to create a ‘luxury supermarket’ of fashion.

It has to be said that Elbaz has an extraordinarily non-traditional view on sales philosophy. He tells his workers that rather than selling, their focus is to make women feel beautiful – a valued brand quality for many women. Following this, Elbaz believes this store is a complementary balance between with Bergdorf Goodman and Barney’s New York, where Lanvin is also sold. Women who visit these stores are personal shoppers seeking a spectrum of different designers to view, so the new Madison Avenue store will complete the Lanvin story. The fashion house is also set to open a store in Beijing, and work is underway on a store in Los Angeles.

Image source: www.wwd.com