Archive for March, 2010

art & design: generative art


Generative art refers to any art practice where the artist uses a system, such as a set of natural language rules, a computer program, a machine, or other procedural invention, which is then set into motion with some degree of autonomy to, or resulting in a complex work of art” – Philip Galanter.

Mpdclick has recently discovered the work of generative artist Keith Peters.  Peters’ work, constructed through the use of computer algorithms, provides thought provoking images with complex codes behind them. Influenced by traditional generative artists such as Tristan Tzara and John Cage, Peters’ latest collection of ‘art from code’ features cube farms and urban city inspired images created with Action Script 3.0 code. When questioned about the source of his ideas, Peters’ revealed that he takes inspiration from the world around him, and a passion for the translation of formulae and information into art.

Focusing on the beauty in science, Peters’ art falls under Mpdclick’s autumn/winter 10/11 ‘Innovate’ trend. This trend is influenced by refracted images, the use of science and maths in design, and linear and geometric shapes, all of which can be seen in Peters’ art work. This style of art work also reflects new discoveries explored within the ‘Innovate’ trend, portraying a minimal, futuristic feel.

Generative art can also be used to assist consumers with the selection and comprehension of information, is the view of fellow generative artist Daniel Becker. Becker believes that art from code will become more and more relevant in the future, when consumers are faced with vast amounts of information and only have a short time in which to process it.

Overall, generative art provides a new approach to the creation of visually appealing images, as well as the provision of a channel for the distribution of information. Here at Mpdclick we look forward to seeing more from Peters and other generative artists in the future!

Image source: designfolio.co.nz

british fashion council vogue designer fashion fund winner: announced!

The British Fashion Council (BFC) today announced that Erdem is the winner of the inaugural BFC / Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.  The Award which is comprised of £200,000 and access to director level mentors across the industry has been established as a key part of the BFC’s 25th anniversary legacy programme to further enhance the reputation of London’s rising stars and assist in the development of their businesses.

The BFC will develop a bespoke mentoring programme tailored specifically to assist Erdem Moralioglus in achieving his business goals for the next twelve months with the aspiration that the network developed during this year will last throughout his career as he makes the transition from a developing creative business into a global fashion brand

Erdem was selected for this award based on the label’s strong design signature and clear vision for the immediate development and growth of his business.  Eight designers were shortlisted by a panel of representatives of Fund sponsors.  All of those shortlisted were then invited to present their collections and future plans to the judging panel of Fund sponsor representatives and industry experts chaired by Alexandra Shulman, Editor of British Vogue.  All of those shortlisted will have access to support from the mentoring panel either directly or through Marigay McKee, Harrods Director of Fashion and Beauty who will chair the mentoring panel.

British based designer Erdem Moralioglu’s eponymous ready-to-wear line was established in 2005. His gracefully modern clothing has won plaudits for its fusion of sharp tailoring with romanticism and bold, graphic, custom-designed silk prints.

The British Fashion Council has an international reputation for supporting emerging talent through its existing schemes; NEWGEN supported by TOPSHOP and Fashion Forward. The BFC Vogue Designer Fashion Fund will aid business growth and create employment opportunities, it is complementary to existing support schemes and will focus on developing profile and opportunities for British designer businesses. 

The Fund was launched by BFC Chairman Harold Tillman in September 2008. Vogue, headline sponsor, whose May issue is on sale early April will showcase the talents of all eight finalists. 

Erdem Moralioglu commented “I am thrilled to be the winner of the BFC Vogue Fashion Fund. It is an honor. The prize will help us to take our business to the next level. It is so integral for us to be showing in London and the support of the BFC and Vogue will allow us to grow our business internationally. It is such exciting time for us.” 

BFC Chairman, Harold Tillman, commented “Erdem has excellent design credentials, an impressive business plan and creates beautiful collections season after season. I am proud to say that the British Fashion Council’s Vogue Designer Fashion Fund will play a key role in developing Erdem’s already prominent designer business both here in the UK and abroad.”

Alexandra Shulman, Editor of British Vogue, said “I am very excited by the prospects that the Fund offers not only in terms of finance but in mentoring.  In Erdem I feel we have a very worthy winner who already has an international reputation and who has the creativity and application that is needed to become a global business.  He makes beautiful clothes that already have a recognisable stamp that is his alone.”

For more information please click here

fashion: ada zanditon celebrates successful aw10 season

British designer Ada Zanditon has had a triumphant AW10 season with encouraging reviews for her Echolocation collection, her first solo show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week and exhibitions in London and Paris resulting in a significant increase in orders.

Ada is currently working on a unique window installation at Machine A in Berwick Street, London. The installation will showcase a couture capsule collection inspired by Fritz Lang’s Film Metropolis (1927).

The AW10 Echolocation collection embarks on a journey into the sultry nocturnal swathe of the low set winter sky; glamorous, sexy and elegant ready to wear locked in a twilight embrace.  The union of print and structure creates an alluring, powerfully feminine, collection.

Zanditon leads us into a dark visceral world captured in geometrically cut body con dresses and high octane full length glamour.  Lines in the form are echoed softly in jewel coloured pleating creating wearable architectural detailing.  Teal nestles alongside shimmering jade against a backdrop of bilberry, indigo and heather with startling flashes of hot pink.

The energy and verve of the early 90’s has inspired a modern classic aesthetic translated through denim pieces and colourful all over prints (all created by Zanditon using her signature illustrations and photography).  Fair trade organic denim teams up with Shetland wool woven in Gloucestershire by Marling and Evans. Silk organza, taffeta and crepe satin sit elegantly alongside digitally printed organic cotton sateen and Tencel jersey.  Other fabrics and yarns have been sourced from pre/post consumer waste

Inspired by bats and their use of sound to image the nocturnal landscape through echos, the Echolocation collection continues the theme of biodiversity and biomimicry which is fast becoming a hallmark of Ada’s architecturally disciplined collections.

Source: Alison Lowe at Felicities

Image source: adaz.co.uk

art & design: icelandic design festival


Created to introduce Icelandic design to the media, the public and tourists, DesignMarch, Iceland’s annual design festival took place for the second time earlier this month. Held in Iceland’s capital city, Reykjavik, DesignMarch featured fresh local talent and various works in progress amongst traditional design.

Visitors to the four day festival wandered the city to find pop-up markets, ceramic and jewellery exhibitions and art galleries. They were also able to attend various lectures by the festival organisers, the Icelandic Design Centre, and tour local furniture manufacturers. Icelanders who contributed to the festival include product designers Jón Björnsson, Stefán Pétur Sólveigarson and illustrator Megan Herbert. To add to its appeal, DesignMarch took place at the same time as the Reykjavik Fashion Festival, where key Icelandic fashion designers took their latest looks to the runway.

Although only in its second year, DesignMarch could prove extremely beneficial to Iceland. Since the country’s economic collapse two years ago, Iceland has been searching for a way to encourage tourism and wealth to its cities, and change perceived views of the nation. Icelandic design has recently grown in popularity, and the dedication of the country’s designers shows potential for the future. However, many of these designers work independently, and currently have very limited opportunities for production available to them. Although this makes it extremely hard for the country to compete in a global market, festivals such as DesignMarch bring publicity to Icelandic designers, and contribute to future growth and success.

DesignMarch is of particular interest to Mpdclick as it reinforces the influences of the Synergy trend forecast for autumn/winter 2011/12. This trend features clean, functional and contemporary designs with Nordic inspiration, all of which can be seen within the work exhibited at DesignMarch. This trend prediction also indicates success for the future of Icelandic design, and suggests that there will be many more Icelandic design festivals to come.

Picture: www.coolhunting.com

lifestyle: affinity travel


Currently the term ‘Customisation’ is a key term for brands and consumers. In recent months Mpdclick lifestyle analysts have reported the customisation of sport, alcohol brands and fashion; now we are detecting a similar development occurring in the travel industry. Coined Affinity Travel, several tour companies are now offering tailor made holidays that cater to individual ‘niche’ groups such as a week in Mexico devoted entirely to food bloggers. Whether it’s Zumba dancing, food or wine tasting, there’s likely a vacation that caters to it; the ethos being that no interest is too niche to be ignored.

Terry L. Dale, president of Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) an association of cruise lines, says affinity cruises are part of a rising trend in group travel. He explains that “Multigenerational travel, food and wine cruises, destination weddings/honeymoons are all popular,” Dale said. “In the case of small ships, it is not uncommon for an affinity group of some sort to charter the entire vessel and plan a customized itinerary.”

In contrast to traditional holiday packages, Affinity Travel aims to provide a more compassionate, emphatic service to consumers by way of creating a sense of mutual affinity. According to Kate Moeller of Club Med “We do it when people are less apt to travel as it is also the time when consumers can get the best deals”. In this way, the focus here is on the individual needs of the niche group as opposed to the masses. Margie Jordan, CEO of ASAP Travel, said her Florida-based company is adapting to accommodate the growing market. “This is an area near and dear to my heart,” Jordan said. “By the end of the second quarter of 2010, my agency will deal primarily with affinity groups.” She believes it is suited to the economy and a less expensive way to travel.

Over recent decades the nature of travelling at large has undergone massive changes due to internet booking websites, the concept of backpacking and the introduction of gap year tour companies.  Fundamentally the consumer has become their own tour operator which in turn has allowed consumers to embrace their individuality through their holiday choices. Furthermore with a generation of former backpackers emerging as mainstream holiday makers, primarily accustomed to make-it-up-as-you-go-along holidays, the traditional two week package deal, one-size-fits-all, doesn’t quite have the same appeal anymore. It appears that in a world of endless possibilities and infinite choices it seems that what consumers really want is something specific to them, tailor made for the individual as a means to finding solace with like-minded people in the group.

Here at Mpdclick, our lifestyle analysts are looking at factors that are contributing to this trend towards group affinity. As self-indulgent consumerism becomes a thing of the past, associated with the old world and pre-recession, we are foreseeing a new era where the focus is on the individual as part of a group and thereby the wider community.

For centuries Eastern cultures have embraced the concept of homogeneity as part of their cultural identify and up until now, this has been a foreign concept to modern western society. However more and more group orientated activities & philosophies are filtering through into our everyday lifestyles. Consequently companies are adapting to suit consumers who are looking to find affinity with themselves, through others in everyday products and services. In this way the concept of Affinity Travel fits with the current climate for customisation and gives the term ‘package deal’ a whole new meaning

Image source: thinkstock.com_polkadot

trends: li edelkoort ‘takes flight’ for a/w 11/12


Last month, Mpdclick had the pleasure of attending a trend seminar hosted by the international forecasting legend Li Edelkoort at her Trend Union headquarters in Paris. It was a very ambient affair, with the theme for autumn/winter 11/12, ‘Taking Flight’, inspiring the whole building’s decor – there were parakeets, parrots and budgies in the foyer, while Li herself conducted the whole presentation with a large white parakeet on her shoulder.

Dutch born Li Edelkoort is the art director and co-publisher of the magazine View on Colour and publisher of Interior View magazine. Edelkoort’s forecasting company Trend Union publish seasonal trend books, with their ideas able to be adapted to inspire any market; left open to individual interpretation. She is regarded as one of the most influential trend consultants and forecasters in the world, and has advised on product identity and development strategy for many international brands including Coca-Cola, Nissan, Siemens, Lancôme and Gucci. British design magazine i-D listed her among the world’s 40 most important designers with Time magazine naming her one of the 25 most influential fashion experts of our day.

Li Edelkoort’s ideas for a/w 11/12 were sweeping, sometimes relating to lifestyle or consumer mood, and sometimes aesthetics. Below we have summarised key points made by Li, that no creative brand should miss

The focal theme ‘Taking Flight’ was hugely inspired by the free existence of birds; knowing no boundaries while existing as a flock, sharing and living as a community in tune with nature, adapting to their surroundings. ‘Taking Flight’ marks liberation, a move away from recent confinement, developing a new generation where the male of the family is more maternal, more nurturing and will allow the female to become the breadwinner and career driven force. Society is predicted to become less hierarchal and more cooperative with more emphasis being placed on wellbeing and seeking a balance in life.

This liberated ethos will be reflected within future fashion, shown by fluid, feathery finishes and natural fibers with significant emphasis on ecological sourcing and production. Nest-like weaving inspires voluminous, slubby fabrics and knits with irregular wefts and heathered yarns. Mohair is named as the material of the season, for its appearance and texture. Black birds create their nests out of everyday detritus- an original and highly inspirational form of repurposing.

A number of design aesthetics are inspired by various birds; their feathers, silhouettes and surroundings. Iridescent finishes for example, like water bird’s feathers can be combined with colour, adding interest to the urban environment. The ever popular Geek Chic and Granddad Cool trends also take heed from ‘Nerd Birds’ like Owls. Noble birds like the peacock spark a 1920’s renaissance, with jewel-like tones, angular shapes and dramatic styling. Mythological and sinister birds such as ravens and crows inspire dark gothic-like collections, while urban birds that blend into their environment in concrete shades of grey conjure notions of metropolitan work wear ensembles. Tail feathers and feather-like fringing and wings inspire tails on tailored jackets and loose billowing sleeves. Red will be used as a used as a prominent accent colour, inspired by beaks, feet and delicate feather flicks.

Hair and make-up is also inspired, with extravagant feathered false eyelashes, fluffy tendrils and styles piled high for females and spiked or unkempt for males.

For more information about ‘Taking Flight’, how to attend one of Li Edelkoort’s seminars and more, click here to visit the Trend Union website.

retail: shopfloors & surrealism

Shopfloors can be fairly uninspiring places at times; unoriginal layouts, conventional shopper/staff dynamics and general lack of consideration when it comes to design can all lead to a fairly forgettable retail experience from the consumer’s point of view.

Here at Mpdclick, we have noticed a few stores that are embracing new design ideas in-store, from a footwear boutique in London to a butcher’s in Sydney. These stores are shining examples of what happens when the consumer’s expectations of a particular environment are subverted entirely, creating a memorable, stylish and above all fun visit.

The Most Curious installation (pictured main), the result of a collaborative effort between textile company Sanderson, footwear designer Tracey Neuls and artist Nina Saunders, is situated in TN 29, Neuls’ shop on Marylebone Lane in London until 30th June. The installation embraces elements of Surrealism; a Sanderson-upholstered chair appears to be melting, in an obvious homage to Salvador Dali, Surrealism’s most well-known proponent, as well as a sculpture by Saunders and shoe designs by Neuls.

Across the Channel, Iranian architect India Mahdavi has designed the interior architecture of a restaurant called Germain in Paris’ 6th Arrondissement (pictured first below). Spread across three storeys, Mahdavi’s bright, ever-so-slightly kitsch interior has an obvious focal point – the five-metre tall yellow sculpture of a woman in an overcoat and high heels that bursts through the ceiling of the restaurant into the VIP lounge above. Created by Paris-based artist Xavier Veilhan, the piece adds real depth to the building and opens the space up very effectively.

Meanwhile, in Sydney, Vic’s Premium Quality Meat (pictured second below), the leading meat supplier to some of the best restaurants in Australia and South-East Asia has expanded its operation to include a butcher’s shop – however, this shop looks more like a high-end fashion boutique than a butcher’s. Rich wood panelling covers the walls and ceilings, while butchers work behind floor-to-ceiling glass, creating the impression of a performance space rather than a work area.

Bringing elements of the theatrical into retail spaces is a surefire way to ensure customers return, as well as standing out a mile from the competition.

Image source: main – www.detnk.com, below - coolhunter.com 

film & fashion: fear, fun and fantasy; fable, ss11


Fairytales and fantasy are in abundance in the media currently with the re-works of classic fairy tales becoming major blockbusters, while on British television screens fantasy dramas are growing in popularity while reality T.V loses favouritism. The popularity of re-worked classic fairytales is no surprise with day-to-day strains and the pressure of modern life combined with the stress of the continuing economic downturn. Whatever it is people are looking to escape, and what better way than your favourite childhood fairytale encased in modern technologies, special effects and given deeper and darker twists to create a new spin. It seems that people are enjoying watching the fight between good and evil, where good finds inner strength and saves the day. This is ever so apparent in Tim Burton’s re-work of Alice in Wonderland where we see innocent Alice swap her pinafore for body armour and a sword to slay a dragon and overcome the Queen of Hearts thereby, saving the day. The film sees all the old characters but given a deeper twist with Alice not initially being accepted before overcoming her fears and saving Wonderland. Perhaps this is an optimistic metaphor for real life where we hope that we ourselves will be able to overcome our recent struggles and restore normality. 

The idea of good vs evil, in a fantastical setting culminates in one of Mpdclick’s spring/summer 2011’s trends; ‘Fable’. We predict this trend to accelerate fully into commercial ranges for SS11 although we are seeing initial sightings of the trend creeping in, with a multitude of Alice in Wonderland inspired looks. Designers have channeled this in a number of ways for SS10, from gingham checks at Christopher Kane (pictured below first), innocent femininity at Chanel (pictured below second) and ditsy florals at Ralph Lauren to the muted tones and candy pastel colour palettes of the season. Mad Hatter get ups were seen on the catwalk of Kenzo (pictured below third),  and Wintel for menswear, ultimately, however summer won’t be right without sporting a bow tie and pocket watch. We have also seen elements of ‘Fable’ coming through in some of the a/w 10/11 collections with Unique (formally Topshop Unique) showing Narnia-inspired pieces. Fable is also translating to editorial in no better than Tim Walker’s latest piece for Italian Vogue where Wonderland is crossed with Marie Antoinette using the season’s pastel colours (pictured main).

Main image source: refinery29.com

© Mpdclick/Christopher Kane

© Mpdclick/Chanel

© Mpdclick/Kenzo

trade fair: fashion fusion expo

Words by Catherine Fuller

On the 12th and 13th March, established venue and all round fashion hot-spot, The Truman Brewery played host to the Fashion Fusion Expo trade fair. Located on Brick Lane, London, the first ever Fashion Fusion Expo was put together by Eric Manu, whose aim was to showcase the best in African and Asian design whilst raising awareness in sustainable and ethical clothing. It was a unique opportunity for the fashion masses to explore the reality behind the ever important cause.

The event not only showcased stalls holding original designs but also featured workshops run by industry insiders from stylists, modelling agencies and designers. Tamsin Lejeune, creator of the Ethical Fashion Forum held an interesting seminar about the Ethical Fashion Forum, their goals, their ethics and a background to the forum. Numerous catwalk shows were also held on the day from exhibiting designers.

Featured brands’ stalls held bright, vibrant African-inspired prints along with beautifully crafted pieces including hand constructed jewellery, printed t-shirts and womens wear. Highlights of the day included brand ‘NV’; “an ethical accessories company, dedicated to bridging the gap between high fashion and traditional, ethical offerings,” and ‘Made in Africa’, by designer Julia Smith that included womens wear pieces using traditional, batik printing from Ghana, West Africa.

The catwalk shows came from a variety of lesser known designers and brands, giving them a great opportunity to showcase their work to the public. The catwalk featured label THTC, “an urban, eco-friendly brand” which comprises of Fair Trade, printed t-shirts which are all 70% bamboo/30% organic cotton and are all produced to the highest quality and ethical standard. The graphics encompass a heavy streetwear influence and are produced for both men and women. We caught another catwalk show from a brand called Side Effects, a London-based brand producing silk sarongs, tops and scarves for women using block printing typical of South Asia.

HF Contemporary Art, which is an art organisation that manage and support promising artists from around the world, took over a space to showcase the best in new and contemporary art, with some of the vintage stalls that are usually at The Truman Brewery on a Sunday also there for attendees to browse.

All in all, The Fashion Fusion Expo was engaging and enlightening and showed that even small, independent brands can produce beautiful, high quality pieces whilst being ethically fair and without compromising originality.

For more information on the event, click here.

Image source: main-Bimbeads Concepts, below-Juzi,Embellished Truth , Choolips, HF Contemporary Art.

 

exhibition: very sanderson: 150 years of english decoration


Now open at the Fashion and Textile Museum until 13th June 2010. Last week the highly anticipated ‘Very Sanderson – 150 years of English Decoration’ exhibition opened in London, and is already attracting high visitor numbers. The work of this most quintessentially English company will be showcased in the exhibition as part of the Sanderson 150th anniversary celebrations and will take visitors on a tour de force of their history in English decoration.

When Arthur Sanderson set up his business in 1860 as an importer of French wallpapers he could scarcely have imagined that a century later it would have grown into a company with a landmark London showroom serving an international market. One hundred and fifty years since it started Sanderson is still going strong today, however, the exhibition charts not just the Sanderson story, but the social history of a country reflected through domestic furnishings and the changing social mores of society.

The exhibition is accompanied by a fascinating series of talks and events including:

Interior Design Workshop – Saturday 8th May

An ideal taster session for anyone with a penchant for interior design, led by interior designer Daniel Hopwood, one of the presenters of Britain’s Best Home on Channel 4, renowned for his glamorous, high end homes as well as work in the capital’s top restaurants and boutique hotels.

To Stay the Same, Everything Must Change – Interpreting and recreating decorative colour schemes in historic buildings – Christopher Vane Percy – Friday 14th May

This is a must for anyone who has ever wandered around an historic building or country house and marvelled at the décor. After starting his design career with Asprey, Christopher Vane Percy formed his own company, CVP Designs, in 1971 with projects ranging from private London houses to commercial assignments and numerous international commissions.

 Textile Design Workshop – Claire Sly – Saturday 29th May

A day to be inspired by Sanderson textiles and create a design to decorate your own beautiful fabric which can be made into a scarf, cushion or bag. We will look at different design layouts, patterns, textures, techniques and use of colour to create something unique and wonderful. You will have the options of hand painting, machine embroidery, hand stitching and embellishing.

Exhibition Highlights Talk- Last Friday of the month throughout the exhibition

2.30pm, duration approximately 30–45 minutes

Join a member of the FTM’s curatorial team on this free tour, which will guide visitors around some of the key highlights and themes of the exhibition. Pre-booking is available at the FTM reception on arrival or in advance.

To coincide with the exhibition The Shop@FTM has a range of Sanderson 150th Anniversary special edition products including ‘A Painters Garden’ soaps, hand wash, hand lotion, scented sachets drawer liners and gift sets. Stationery including writing sets, greeting cards, notebooks, cards, notelets sets  and ceramic  mugs, tea-sets and coffee sets featuring Sanderson Dandelion Clocks and Etchings and Roses designs.

Coming soon our very own resident knitwear expert Claire Newberry fill us in first hand on the exhibition from her own creative perspective.

For more information on the Very Sanderson exhibition, click here.

Image source: ftmlondon.org