Archive for February, 2010

fashion: lfw – nicole fahri


Effortless feminine glamour sauntered around the figure-of-eight Nicole Farhi catwalk, where attention to detail of fabrics, patterning and soft sculpturing were key to the established designers fresh new 2010 collection.

Sharp angular collars start the collection with softer slumping neck lines on feminine calf length tube dresses. Rose red acts as the focal accent colour throughout the collection, adorning sculptural leather skirts, chiffon evening dresses and textural floral shifts. Cinched waists offer feminine silhouettes with horizontal layering adding a structured slouch edge to sophisticated glam dresses.

Floods of black with splashes of strong earthy beige began the show, patent vertical panelled pieces on tailored long coats, cape style jackets and mid-length pleated skirts offer a modernistic twist to classic styles. Leggings and patent booties complete many of the styles along with swept back, carefree hair and natural make up.

Farhi’s final pieces brought sheer fabrics mixed with gold embellishments for ultimate feminism to the overall wearable collection.

Image source: Nicole Farhi @ Mpdclick

fashion & retail: falling down the rabbit hole…


“To celebrate the launch of Tim Burton’s eagerly awaited film, Alice in Wonderland, the Selfridges Concept Store in London will play host a truly unique pop-up shop – Alice in the Wonder Room from Monday 22 February.

There you’ll find of an inspiring curation of curious delights including original costumes from the film like Johnny Depp’s Mad Hatter’s ensemble, plus, don’t miss the opportunity to see iconic scenes from the film recreated in our exclusive window displays, before the film premieres.

The pop up shop will also feature Alice-inspired pieces including Stella McCartney and Tom Binns’ Wonderland jewellery; playing cards and chess boards.”

Source & image source: Selfridges.com

fashion: lfw day five & six


The final two days of London Fashion Week kicked off with quite a highlight; widely reported as the ‘show of the week’, Ashish unveiled his collection of grungy knitwear teamed with signature all-over sequins (pictured main). Attendees, including Girls Aloud member Nicola Roberts, Brit singer Paloma Faith and boutique owner and TV personality Brix Smith-Start sat front row, were treated to an array of sludgy oversized cable knits and ‘The Life Aquatic’ style beanie hats styled with colourful glimmering tunics, shifts and wide-leg trousers. The models stomped to a Soviet beat (ex-Soviet states being a running theme throughout), displaying an attitude perfectly in keeping with the aggressive tone of the show. Imagine if Alexander Wang had ever been to Studio 64, but maybe the Uzbekistan branch, and you’ll get an idea of what Ashish achieved.

Later, Basso and Brooke’s models appeared, to an optimistic beat,in the duo’s signature all over prints; sticking to a palette of autumnal jade greens and burnt orange but with injections of hotly spiced hues. The collection was one of subtle difference, with sensible proportion play and a relaxed take on opposition. Fluffy fur collars arrived on digitalised maxi dresses, the prints having a certain McQueen air. Elsewhere, splatter prints and feather-like brush strokes appeared on column shapes and flowing chiffon. The whole collection played on structure vs. fluidity, featuring body-con with billowing sleeves and controlled silhouettes with draped plunging backs.

It has been reported by the fashion press, and critics, that the show’s palettes have been somewhat dull and dreary (preempting the British weather perhaps?) with just a few designers providing a colourful anecdote. However, Amanda Wakeley’s tonal autumn/winter collection of greys and nudes was really quite beautiful, timeless and utterly wearable. Cloaks, capelets and outsize blazers were layered over flirty mini-dresses, palazzo pants and cigarette tux trousers. Mpdclick’s highlight was a gunmetal grey draped jumpsuit – 70′s Manhattan inspiration put to it’s best.

The last day of fashion week is devoted to menswear, with proceedings beginning with another tonal grey and blush collection from Carolyn Massey. Styling was subversive with pushed back undercuts and silver hoop earrings. Mod shapes were evident with outsize trenches and generally heavy suitings, while long-johns and differing layers nodded towards protest-chic. Cosy giant scarves, textural knits and long length jumpers provided a selection of winter staples.

Following on, JW Anderson choose an angry rock soundtrack as the backdrop for his punky line, complete with chokers, tartan, spiked hiking boots and studded, ripped denim. Terrace boys mixed with their punk counterparts while others went on a boy’s adventure with regular hiking attire, waterproof finishes and nylon backpacks.

NewGen prize winners Christopher Shannon and James Long didn’t fail to please attendees of their autumn/winter shows, proving Topshop are right on track with their support of both of them. Shannon secured a number of comebacks, including the use of fleece, all over printed jeans and padded anoraks with coloured panels. The fledgling designer ensured the current infatuation with 1990′s trends lasts another season

As with Shannon, Long played it a little safe with tonal greys and muted dark blues, showing wide corduroy jumpsuits, ‘pulled’ open knit sweaters and super-skinny leather trousers. A highlight was his powerful trench coats with panels of leather, fur and corduroy, adorned by a multitude of straps, zips and a giant upturned collar.

Stay tuned to Mpdclick’s runway area for full, comprehensive London Fashion Week coverage.

entertainment: nme awards


Last night The Shockwaves NME awards, held at London’s O2 Academy in Brixton saw the best in British music receive a host of awards, some serious such as Kasabian winning the ‘Best Album Prize’ and some hilarious; with teen sensation band The Jonas Brothers named  ‘Worst band’ and ‘Worst album’, according to voters.

The night saw artists perform exclusive sets and collaborations such as Kasabian performing with Mighty Boosh star Noel Fielding, Lily Allen singing with The Big Pink on their hit single ‘Dominoes’ and Scot rockers Biffy Clyro were joined by Welsh rising star Marina & Diamonds. The Specials also performed who were also honoured for their ‘Outstanding Contribution to Music’.

Winners of the night included Paul Weller, awarded with the prestigious ‘Godlike Genius’ prize, headliners of the moment Muse won ‘Best British Band’ with ‘Best Solo Artist’ awarded to Jamie T. ‘Best New Band’ went to London based band Bombay Bicycle Club. Other notable winners include Glastonbury winning ‘Best Festival’, Blur for ‘Best Live Performance’, Lady Gaga winning a double whammy for both ‘Best and Worst Dressed’ and Kanye West fittingly winning ‘Villain of the year’.

For more info and pictures of the event, click here

Image source: kasabian.web.com 

fashion: elle style awards


The Elle Style awards, hosted at the Grand Connaught Rooms London, was graced with the most stylish guys and gals in the world of celebrity on Monday night.

Winners of night included the glowingly pregnant Dannii Minogue, (pictured main with sister Kylie) winning ‘TV Star Of the Year’ wearing a vibrant yellow Lisa Ho one shouldered number. Twilight star Kristen Stewart (pictured below first) wore a strapless monochrome Pucci number and was overwhelmed at winning the ‘Woman Of The Year’ award. Naomi Campbell (pictured below second) was awarded with the ‘Outstanding Contribution Of The Year’ prize for her modeling and charity work while honoring the late Alexander McQueen in her acceptance speech. Naomi has been paying tribute since the designer died last week, wearing a McQueen creation at every event attended from his spring/summer 2010 nature inspired collection.

Model Rosie Huntington-Whitely (pictured below third) looked stunning in a red floor skimming Christian Dior dress, as did actress Claire Danes (pictured below fourth) in a black Burberry dress with lace sleeves. Model Daisy Lowe arrived with her designer mother Pearl Lowe (pictured below fifth) looking cute and quirky in a high waisted Miu Miu skirt and criss-cross top. Pixie Geldof surprised photographers with her new ‘grey rinse’ hair-do sporting a Vivienne Westwood suit, posing for pictures with friend Jamie Winstone (pictured below sixth) who once again opted for the ‘old Hollywood glamour’ style in a strapless nude toned Roksanda Ilincic dress.

Other notable winners included Claudia Schiffer winning ‘Model Of The Year’, Florence And The Machine winning ‘Musician Of The Year’ and Christopher Bailey for Burberry winning ‘International Designer Of The Year’. The ‘Editor’s Choice’ award went to TV presenter/model/DJ Alexa Chung (pictured below seventh) who wore a delicate blue tea dress by Chanel. Big screen winners included Carey Mulligan winning ‘Actress Of The Year’ and Colin Firth winning ‘Actor Of The Year’ with young actor Nicholas Hoult being awarded the ‘Breakthrough Talent’ prize.

Image source: Rex Features

 

art & design: cecil balmond explores the elements


In a current exhibition entitled ‘Element’, the structural engineer Cecil Balmond explores his theories and speculations about pattern, space and geometric forms through three installation sections. On show in the Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery in Japan, the pieces can be viewed until the 22nd March 2010.
As you enter the first section of the show, the viewer is greeted by photographs and drawings exploring the structures and patterns within nature. Balmond draws upon his understanding of the rhythms within nature, rather than just recreating a vision of superficial beauty. By combining this with his knowledge of geometry, the displays imbue a vast richness and complexity, encouraging visitors to have an affinity with the complex order at the core of the natural world.
Moving onto the second section, the gallery is filled with H-shaped aluminum plates suspended by chains. In this piece, Balmond explores the idea that a building can move and be flexible according to its environment. Unable to stand alone, the plates support each other, creating a never ending sense of space and scale. His use of simple algorithm enables buildings and vast structures to be built almost like an organism, full of complexity and a sense of life. He aims to stimulate the viewer’s senses and minds by identifying and emulating the very essence of natural forms.
Finally, a puzzle ‘Danzer’ is made of four types of tetrahedron completing the exhibition. Inspired by the way these fractal forms are embedded within nature in everything from the form of the coastline to the branches of a tree, this piece has a spellbinding quality.
Balmond was raised with a highly technical mind, having explored education in the fields of chemistry, mathematics and architecture, which he took on by joining the British multi-disciplinary firm ARUP. He has since been involved in many different projects with some of the world’s most revered architects, applying his knowledge of shape and form by developing ways of freeing architecture from a static state based on basic geometric forms. 
Image source: dezeen.com

fashion: the mcqueen label lives on

As London Fashion Week opens with a minutes silence for McQueen, who sadly committed suicide last week,  it was announced yesterday that PPR (the Gucci group subsidiary)which brought a majority stake in the McQueen label in 2001, will continue his vision by showing his last collection at Paris Fashion Week (March 3-11).

At a conference for PPR yesterday, Francois-Henri Pinault (President of PPR) spoke of his distress at the death of McQueen, saying “The fashion world has lost one of her most extraordinary sons. I have also lost a friend, a person of exceptional sensitivity which he hid behind a screen of provocation.”

He then went on to say that the company was devoted to carrying on the brand and this all starts with McQueen’s team completing his last collection which will be shown at Paris Fashion Week. “This would be the best tribute that we could offer to him” Pinault said in his speech. It is not known yet who they will employ for the design team but they have said that it is too soon to say, when family and friends are still grieving his untimely death.

Even with the bleak suicide and mystery surrounding last week’s events, fashion industry publication Drapers have reported a 1,400 % rise in the sale of McQueen’s clothes, which can only be a positive sign for PPR.

Image source: Timesonline.co.uk

entertainment: bafta awards

Held at London’s Royal Opera House last night, the prestigious BAFTA awards saw a wealth of elegant stars turn out in a plethora of ink black and sparkling nude tones.

Twilight star Kristen Stewart (pictured below first), who won the Rising Star Award, wore a textural white, strapless, knee-length dress by Chanel. On-tone texture was key feature within the array of nude tones seen gracing the red carpet last night with Jaime Winstone (pictured below second) personifying ‘old Hollywood glamour’ in a panelled floor skimming Alexander McQueen nude gown complete with vixen red lipstick. Claire Danes (pictured below third) looked radiantly sophisticated in a ruched oyster hued Burberry dress that perfectly complimented her skin tone.

The ‘little black dress’ was replaced with the ‘long black dress’ with Kate Winslet (pictured below fourth) leading the way in a figure skimming design by Stella McCartney with cut-out lace panels. British models Erin O’Connor (pictured below fifth) and Tolula Adeyemi (pictured below sixth) followed suit in frocks that embrace black on black texture. Erin donned a floor length halter neck Louis Vuitton number with frill trim while Tolula sported a strapless silk bodice dress with contrasting sheer top. The esteemed Academy Fellowship award was presented by Prince William-looking rather dapper in a black tux (pictured below seventh) -and Uma Thurman to British actress Vanessa Redgrave (pictured main) who looked classically chic in a black Catherine Walker outfit.

Audrey Tautou (pictured below eighth), nominated for her role in the biopic ‘Coco before Chanel’ surprised avid fashion followers by wearing a pink asymmetric Alber Elbaz for Lanvin instead. Other celebs to pop with colour on the red carpet included Atonement actress Romola Garai (pictured below ninth) who presented the ‘Make Up and Hair’ award wearing a beautiful strapless floral Erdem creation.

Award winners of the night included ‘The Hurt Locker’ for Best Film, Colin Firth (pictured below tenth) for Leading Actor in A Single Man and Carey Mulligan for Leading Actress in An Education. Oscar winning film Avatar won two awards including ‘Production Design’ and ‘Special Visual Effects’.

Image source: Rex Features

fashion: lfw day one


Here at Mpdclick we make no secret of our ardent appreciation for British fashion and creativity, so it will come as no surprise that we simply could not wait for the autumn/winter edition of London Fashion Week. Opening on Friday 19th February at a fashionable 10 am, we of course were among the eclectic crowds, flooding into the grand court yard at the impressive Somerset House venue to witness day one of the exciting proceedings. LFW’s official press release boasts that “London Fashion Week is the most creative and innovative event on the global fashion calendar.” It is certainly true that it holds a certain je ne c’est quoi, an inspired and supportive atmosphere unlike any of the ‘big four’ fashion weeks.

Our day begins at the Caroline Charles runway show, a fantastic kick off, comprising of four sets; Metropolis Urban, Rural Hobo, Boho Cocktail and Babylon Beyond. As one of London’s most esteemed womenswear designers, Caroline Charles OBE, catered for her market perfectly, offering a comprehensive assortment of formal day and evening wear for the conservative woman about town. Nifty shift dresses were teamed with black PVC bucket hats for contemporary appeal. A handful of tweed and check suits were styled with cinching waist belts, forest green leather gloves and matching walking socks providing a sophisticated yet edgy take on the season’s popular ‘outdoorsy’ aesthetic. A classic Audrey Hepburn moment was provided by an elfin model who strutted down the runway to raucous jazzy saxophones in a slinky black sheath dress draped in a glamorous black boa and sporting matching opera gloves. Aviation caps hinted at a 1940’s wartime influence while furry earmuffs offer a younger, flirty aesthetic. A score of beaded and embellished cocktail dresses were reminiscent of ‘Poiret’, exuding opera opulence, along with waterfall blazers in rich velvet and high waist fishtail maxi skirts. Gold snake belts and lace and latex leggings emerge as ‘must have’ items for the labels younger clientele. The show’s dramatic overture saw a gothic bride swathed in a black lace beaded gown and veil sweep hauntingly down the runway carrying a golden twig bouquet. Make up for the show is credited to Angela Davis-Deacon while hair styles were created by the South Coast’s very own Guy Kremer.

After the Charles show we happily browsed the expansive exhibition, set over four floors of Somerset House. Over 200 designers showcase their ready to wear and accessories for autumn/winter 2010; the highlight coming from ‘one-to-watch’ Manjit Deu whose desirable dresses and separates provide some much needed seasonal  sparkle adorned with shimmering, outsized hand cut sequins.  About the show, a relaxed and friendly atmosphere saw designers, stylists, buyers, fashion fans and show crashers networking, fuelling a creative atmosphere of collaboration. The sadness over the loss of British fashion maestro Lee Alexander McQueen that has marked the season flooded the venue and many wore the prized McQueen skull scarf as a mark of respect. A tribute wall set in pride of place in the main tent was overflowing with heartfelt messages from admirers and close personal friends of the designer, branding him both ‘a genius and an inspiration’.

The Bora Aksu show was our next stop, while waiting with the milling guests we talked to husband and wife design duo Lynda and Daniel Kinne responsible for New York label ‘à la disposition’; they spoke of the unique pull of London Fashion Week and their desire to branch out across the pond. As devotees of NYFW they told us its lack of a proper editing process leaves the event saturated with scattered brands and labels, “if you have the cash you can have a show”. They admire LFW for its concise line-up and commitment to supporting new talent.

The Aksu show was our favourite of the day, the invite alone inspired us, a notebook featuring a hand illustrated cover portraying an ethereal yet imperfect fairytale princess. Digital beats mixed by Aksu fan Jodie Harsh penetrated the venue as one by one dishevelled yet enthralling nymphs stalked down the runway in cupcake shades of blue and pink juxtaposed by stark black. Entitled ‘Beauty in the Unexpected’ the collection offered textural, modern ensembles that mashed Marie Antoinette with Edward Scissorhands. The designer’s signature spiderweb knits were over-mended with colour threading while leggings were distressed and given texture through leather and lace patches and embroidery. Brazilian fish skin was chosen as an innovative alternative to classic cowhide leather while layers of brocade and silk tulle were the basis of fashionable armour. Semi-couture dresses in hazy lilac and soft mink hues cut a hip enhancing silhouette while bodice encasing cables hinted at a sci-fi aesthetic.

Stay tuned for more observations from the show and be sure to visit the Runway area for our comprehensive coverage of London Fashion Week.

Image sources: main: mpdclick, below: mpdclick, bora aksu, caroline charles

 

 

 

retail: hermes men and women to go their separate ways

This week the French luxury brand Hermès opened its first store in the world that is entirely devoted to its male customers. The men’s store is located on none other than Madison Avenue and 62nd in Manhattan; very convenient for couples shopping, as it is directly opposite the decade old 10,600 square foot flagship store.

 

The four floor townhouse, designed by Rena Dumas, director of the Parisian architectural firm RDAI, does not lack in design or luxury. From small Hermès rouge tiles embedded in marble floors to an entire floor dedicated to custom and made-to-measure merchandise, the store offers a unique shopping experience which is designed to make customers feel so comfortable and cosy they could be in a walk-in wardrobe.

 

We can see from this grand opening that Hermès is obviously not worried that luxury customers might be cutting back, which is especially refreshing to see after the economic downturn.

 

The fact that the store sells only men’s items has shocked some, yet Patrick Thomas, chief executive officer of Hermès International, states, ‘Hermès men’s business is actually stronger than most realise’. Indeed, their menswear range accounts for around forty five percent of the luxury brand’s sales.

 

The store, which has been two years in the making, officially opened earlier this month, holding an exclusive party for more than 500 guests to celebrate the event.

 

Image source: nyracked.com