The final two days of London Fashion Week kicked off with quite a highlight; widely reported as the ‘show of the week’, Ashish unveiled his collection of grungy knitwear teamed with signature all-over sequins (pictured main). Attendees, including Girls Aloud member Nicola Roberts, Brit singer Paloma Faith and boutique owner and TV personality Brix Smith-Start sat front row, were treated to an array of sludgy oversized cable knits and ‘The Life Aquatic’ style beanie hats styled with colourful glimmering tunics, shifts and wide-leg trousers. The models stomped to a Soviet beat (ex-Soviet states being a running theme throughout), displaying an attitude perfectly in keeping with the aggressive tone of the show. Imagine if Alexander Wang had ever been to Studio 64, but maybe the Uzbekistan branch, and you’ll get an idea of what Ashish achieved.
Later, Basso and Brooke’s models appeared, to an optimistic beat,in the duo’s signature all over prints; sticking to a palette of autumnal jade greens and burnt orange but with injections of hotly spiced hues. The collection was one of subtle difference, with sensible proportion play and a relaxed take on opposition. Fluffy fur collars arrived on digitalised maxi dresses, the prints having a certain McQueen air. Elsewhere, splatter prints and feather-like brush strokes appeared on column shapes and flowing chiffon. The whole collection played on structure vs. fluidity, featuring body-con with billowing sleeves and controlled silhouettes with draped plunging backs.
It has been reported by the fashion press, and critics, that the show’s palettes have been somewhat dull and dreary (preempting the British weather perhaps?) with just a few designers providing a colourful anecdote. However, Amanda Wakeley’s tonal autumn/winter collection of greys and nudes was really quite beautiful, timeless and utterly wearable. Cloaks, capelets and outsize blazers were layered over flirty mini-dresses, palazzo pants and cigarette tux trousers. Mpdclick’s highlight was a gunmetal grey draped jumpsuit – 70′s Manhattan inspiration put to it’s best.
The last day of fashion week is devoted to menswear, with proceedings beginning with another tonal grey and blush collection from Carolyn Massey. Styling was subversive with pushed back undercuts and silver hoop earrings. Mod shapes were evident with outsize trenches and generally heavy suitings, while long-johns and differing layers nodded towards protest-chic. Cosy giant scarves, textural knits and long length jumpers provided a selection of winter staples.
Following on, JW Anderson choose an angry rock soundtrack as the backdrop for his punky line, complete with chokers, tartan, spiked hiking boots and studded, ripped denim. Terrace boys mixed with their punk counterparts while others went on a boy’s adventure with regular hiking attire, waterproof finishes and nylon backpacks.
NewGen prize winners Christopher Shannon and James Long didn’t fail to please attendees of their autumn/winter shows, proving Topshop are right on track with their support of both of them. Shannon secured a number of comebacks, including the use of fleece, all over printed jeans and padded anoraks with coloured panels. The fledgling designer ensured the current infatuation with 1990′s trends lasts another season.
As with Shannon, Long played it a little safe with tonal greys and muted dark blues, showing wide corduroy jumpsuits, ‘pulled’ open knit sweaters and super-skinny leather trousers. A highlight was his powerful trench coats with panels of leather, fur and corduroy, adorned by a multitude of straps, zips and a giant upturned collar.
Stay tuned to Mpdclick’s runway area for full, comprehensive London Fashion Week coverage.